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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.